Most spotting scopes provide magnifications of 15 or 20 power up to 45 to 60 power. This compares to binocular magnification that is usually 7-10 power. There is a limit to how much you can clearly magnify an image during the day and that limit is a function of the clarity of the air. Heat, moisture, fog, pollution, or dust will also be magnified along with your ultimate target. Heat or fog magnified 60 times looks hotter or foggier than if it was magnified 20 times! Higher power, therefore, does not always look as clear as lower power.

Spotting Scopes are often sold with a choice of eyepiece/magnification. Generally, fixed power eyepieces provide somewhat greater clarity and a wider field of view than the same magnification in a zoom eyepiece. Zoom eyepieces provide more magnification choices -- and tend to be more popular for that reason.

No, not necessarily! Higher power magnifies the heat, moisture or dust in the air so the image will seem less clear. Also, higher power has a narrower Field of View making it harder to find moving targets. Higher power is also darker, thus limiting the amount of detail seen.

Higher power magnifies the heat, moisture or dust in the air so the image will seem less clear.

The sky's the limit! On a clear day you can see to the horizon. Clarity of the air is the limiting factor in how far you can see. At night, spotting scopes can also be used for basic lunar and planetary viewing.

Spotting scopes mount on camera or video tripods that are generally sold separately from the spotter. If you have a sturdy camera or video tripod, it may be sufficient for your spotter. The tripod must be sturdy enough to steadily hold the scope with a minimum of vibration.

If you plan to buy a tripod for a spotter, we recommend video tripods because they "pan" smoothly as you move the scope. Both camera and video tripods have a quarter-inch 20 standard screw on the head of the tripod that can also be used with still cameras or video cameras.

ED (extra low dispersion), HD (high definition) and APO (apochromatic) are terms that are utilized to describe a higher grade of glass. Chromatic aberration, or false color and color fringing, can be eliminated or improved with the use of this better, more expensive, glass.

Spotting scopes are available with eyepieces set at a 45-degree angle from the scope body or in a straight line with the spotting scope. One design is not better than the other; rather it is simply a matter of personal preference.

The straight-through eyepiece design can provide a more natural "line of sight" view, making it easier for users to properly aim the spotter at the target they are seeing with the naked eye.

Angled eyepiece designs may be more comfortable if you are sharing the instrument with users of different heights, i.e. children. The angled design is also more comfortable when looking at taller or overhead objects or views.

Digiscoping is capturing images on a digital camera using a spotting scope as a telephoto lens. There are many ways to do this with varying degrees of resolution. A digital SLR camera can be cleanly adapted to almost any spotting scope with the purchase of appropriate "T-Adapters" and "T-Rings".

"Point and Shoot" compact digital cameras can work extremely well but are more challenging to adapt: many of the spotting scope manufacturers have adapters that hold the camera up to the eyepiece of the spotter. There are also some "after market" universal adapters. But not all cameras will adapt!

At this time, Nikon, Kowa, Swarovski, Zeiss and Leica have good digital camera adapters, but not for all camera models. Please see the specific adapters listed in both the manufacturer and in our "Digiscoping" categories.